There’s something about being one of the first people through the door at a new restaurant. The space has electricity that’s all its own in those early days.
Reservations were sold out through OpenTable, even with the advantages we had with Sapphire Reserve Exclusive Tables, Uber One Exclusive Tables, and Visa Dining Collection access. Fortunately, with the help of our WA Concierge, we snagged a brunch reservation for five people at 11 a.m. on Sunday — technically the first weekend’s closing brunch. The new concept from Chef Peleg Miron is California-inspired Pan-Asian, and from the moment we sat down, it was clear this kitchen knows exactly what it’s doing.
Designer Marc Ange gave the space a definite point of view with sienna and terracotta tones everywhere, a lush living wall running along one side, and these tall yellow floor lamps scattered throughout the dining room that are striking and completely right. They’re meant to evoke old European street lanterns, and on a rooftop in Beverly Hills, they land perfectly. The hostess, a transplant from Lake Como with a killer tattoo of the passport stamp from her first time setting foot on US soil, made us feel welcome and special.
We sat outside, and the views are ridiculous. The Santa Monica Mountains to the west, the Hollywood Sign in the distance, and the Beverly Hills Flats laid out below you like a postcard. At 11:00 in the morning, with the sun still at a forgiving angle, there’s nowhere in LA I can imagine that I’d rather be enjoying brunch.
A rather large drone was active in the near distance for the first part of our seating, but it provided more conversation material than distraction.
The brunch menu is à la carte. Christy ordered the Almond Pancakes, which set the bar high. Light, with just enough sweetness, and beautifully executed.
Amy and Erika ordered the Eggs Benedict, one with ham, one without meat, and both returned clean plates. The hollandaise had some acidity to it that kept it from feeling heavy, which matters at brunch when you’re going to be conscious for the rest of the day.
The Avocado Toast came with a hard-poached egg (a $5 add-on, absolutely worth it) and was one of the better versions of the dish Katie has had. She is an Avocado toast aficionado, and while Avocado toast is everywhere in LA, she said that Gemma’s stands out.
I ordered the Two Eggs Any Style and added Neuske’s Bacon, which rounded things out. The Neuske bacon is thick-cut and smoky, making the regular bacon at most places feel flimsy by comparison. If you’re ordering eggs, add the bacon. I’m not normally a fan of the thick cuts that are more like ham than bacon, and this did not cross that line.
On the drinks side, we ordered four cappuccinos at $11 each — beautifully made, rich without being bitter. One person went for an iced latte; I ordered a drip coffee “with lots of cream, lots of sugar” and was rewarded with two small pitchers of cream, a first for me! We went through two bottles of Acqua Panna and a San Pellegrino. Nobody was going home thirsty.
What I keep thinking about is the whole experience taken as a whole. Again, Gemma has a point of view. The evening program, from what I can tell, honors the Pan-Asian concept with dim sum, sashimi, wonton with truffle black vinegar, Singaporean noodles, and a cocktail program built by Beverage Director Jim Kearns around a refined, modern Tiki sensibility. I haven’t been for dinner yet, but based on what I tasted at brunch, I’ll be back.
Gemma is located inside the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills at 9850 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, California 90210, and is open Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 2:00 to 10:00 p.m.
Rooftop brunch is available every Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Reservations are available via OpenTable. Book ahead — this place is going to fill up fast once word gets out, and word is already getting out!
Learn + Earn + Burn + Churn
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Beverly Hills Brunch Gemma Los Angeles Pan-Asian Review Waldorf Astoria
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